A Weekend in Old Hyderabad with Fujifilm X100vi

20 Jul 2024 • 17 minutes read

Living in Hyderabad for almost a year now has been like reconnecting with an old friend. My previous stint here was between 2011-2013 when I was prepping for the IIT-JEE, buried in books, with little time to explore. The last time I ventured into the old parts of Hyderabad, affectionately called "Old Hyderabad," was back in 2005 during a family trip. So, nearly 19 years later, I decided it was time to revisit Charminar and its surroundings.

The goal of this trip was to discover the best Photowalk path and share my journey with you. Having experienced photo walks in various cities across India and other continents, this wasn’t a beginner's adventure but a fresh exploration of Hyderabad's iconic spots.

The Camera Gear

After being an early adopter of the Sony Mirrorless ecosystem with my Sony A7Rii, I recently switched to the Fujifilm X100vi. Why? That’s a story for another post. In short, as Phone photography improved, I found myself using my mirrorless camera less frequently. I needed a camera that provided less resistance, and the X100vi fit the bill perfectly.

Almost all the photos in this post were shot with the Fujifilm X100vi, except for those at Chowmahalla Palace, where cameras are not allowed. This was my first outing with the X100vi, using optical viewfinder. If some images don’t meet your expectations, blame it on the user (me) rather than the camera. Now, let’s dive into the photo essay.

Starting Point: Secunderabad Railway Station

The journey began at Secunderabad Railway Station around 11 AM. You can reach here via the metro, alighting at Secunderabad West Station.

Monda Market

My first stop of the day was Alpha Hotel. Located right next to Secunderabad station, Alpha Hotel is known for its affordable biryani and bakery items. Interestingly, Alpha Bakery doesn't accept UPI payments, which is perplexing since even the pay-to-use toilets in the metro terminal accept UPI now.

After Alpha Hotel, I went further into the Monda Market

Monda Market resembles many other markets in India. Frankly, if you’ve visited other Indian markets, you can skip this one as it lacks uniqueness. I headed back to the starting point and took the metro from Secunderabad-West to RTC X-Roads.

RTC X-Roads and BawarcHi

RTC X-Roads holds fond memories from my previous time in Hyderabad. It was the area of my college exam centre. It has transformed significantly over the past 11 years. The X-road has become two T-roads due to a blocked circle, with an overhead metro and a flyover adding to the change.

Despite these changes, the World Famous BawarcHi remains a constant. Arriving at 12:30 PM on a Sunday, I waited 25 minutes for a table. The best time to visit is between 12-1 PM. Upon leaving, it was even more crowded, making the exit challenging. After the meal, I returned to RTC X-Roads metro station and took a metro to Sultan Bazaar.

Madina Market

Getting off at Sultan Bazaar, I decided to walk to Madina Market, which in hindsight was a bad idea. I prefer travelling by foot or bicycle to experience a place better, but this 2.5 km walk was not ideal. This part of Hyderabad is dirty, dangerous to walk due to the lack of pedestrian paths and speeding traffic. In addition to this it also and lacks good photo opportunities. It's better to take a cab instead.

The market itself was extremely crowded, likely due to Sunday shopping. Madina Market is known for wholesale cloth stores, it also has fabric and dress shops. As it started drizzling, I hesitated to take out my camera due to the X100vi’s lack of weather resistance without a filter. Still, I managed to capture a few shots.

Charminar

Charminar, the trip’s highlight, looks much better than my last visit in 2005, thanks to renovations and repainting. Legend has it that Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah built Charminar and Hyderabad after meeting and marrying Bhagmati, who later converted to Islam naed herself Hyder Mahal, leading to the city being named Hyderabad. Constructed in 1591, Charminar is as old as Hyderabad itself.

I spent considerable time photographing Charminar, aiming for the perfect shot. I didn’t enter the monument due to the crowd and the risk of pickpocketing, which is common enough that police issue warnings over loudspeakers around the monument.

Laad Bazaar

Laad Bazaar, translating to Bangle Bazaar, lies on one of the roads leading to Charminar. It’s lined with bangle, clothing, and jewellery shops, especially pearls. I wanted to photograph the pearls and sellers, but they weren’t very accommodating.

Irani Chai at Nimrah Cafe

Returning to Charminar, I visited Nimrah Cafe for Irani Chai, which many consider a must-try for visitors. However, I found the chai itself lacking in flavour. The cafe doesn’t accept UPI payments, so make sure to carry cash if you plan to try it. In the end, I felt I paid more for the experience than for the taste of the chai itself.

Makkah Masjid

Old Hyderabad, like many old cities, has a prominent place of worship—Makkah Masjid. It is named after the bricks made from Mecca soil. Its construction began under the Qutb Shahi Sultan and was completed by Aurangzeb of the Mughal Dynasty. I couldn’t enter due to security restrictions on cameras. Photography is strictly prohibited here.

Chowmahalla Palace

Translating to Four Palaces, Chowmahalla includes the Afzal Mahal, Mahtab Mahal, Tahniyat Mahal, and Aftab Mahal. It was the Nizam of Hyderabad’s seat.

Professional cameras are banned here, with a specific prohibition on pre-wedding photography—I wonder why? These photos were shot on my iPhone after depositing my camera at security. Entry costs Rs. 100 for Indians, with an additional Rs. 50 for mobile photography.

The Nizam Museum shop needs improvement; its offerings are limited and unimpressive. I was disappointed with the postcard collection.

The museum conveniently glosses over the later years of the Nizam’s rule for obvious reasons. The armour collection, fabrics, crockery, and handicrafts are impressive, along with the royal family’s cars and carriages. Expect to walk and rest a lot; it takes 1-2 hours to explore, and the place closes at 5 PM.

I got out of Chowmahalla at 5:00 PM, which concluded my photo walk. I took a cab from Chowmahalla to Gandhi Bhavan metro station.

Tips for your trip:

1. Carry Cash: Many places, like Alpha Bakery and Nimrah Cafe, don't accept digital payments, so having cash on hand will save you from inconvenience.
2. Stay Hydrated: Bring a water bottle with you. You'll be walking a lot, and there may be spots where buying a drink isn't easy.
3. Plan Your Visit to Chowmahalla: Make sure to enter Chowmahalla Palace early, as it closes at 5:00 PM. Arriving early will give you ample time to explore the palace and the museum.
4. Avoid Driving: The traffic in this part of town can be quite hectic, and parking is limited. Using public transportation or a cab is a more convenient option.
5. Beware of Pickpocketing: Be cautious of pickpockets, especially in crowded areas. Always keep an eye on your belongings.

Final Thoughts

The Hyderabad photo walk was a delightful journey with its charm—a good one-time experience. It’s not the best place I’ve photographed, but certainly not the worst. Only time will tell if I remember it fondly. The vendors and people aren’t as friendly as in Mumbai. The Nizam influence is evident but subdued. It’s distinctively Hyderabad with frequent Urdu, Telugu, and English signboards and shop names. I’m not done with Hyderabad yet and hope to explore more places.

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